Wines of the Month - July 2023

A couple months back, after we received our most recent container from Italy, I spent a couple of hours sampling out Barolos from Gioso and Franco Conterno at our store on The Hill. It wasn’t surprising at all that the wines were well received. Both offer incredible value, and the Franco Conterno in particular is a favorite of mine. What was surprising though, was that in all but a handful of cases, the customers I spoke to were not at all familiar with Barolo! I had to remind myself that for many drinkers, even folks who enjoy Italian wines, the “Wine of Kings” isn’t even a blip on the radar. This, I thought, was something we needed to address. So if you’re not familiar with the magic of Barolo (or if you’re very familiar and just want a good deal), read on.

Maybe the biggest reason Barolo isn’t on the lips of American drinkers to such an extent as Chianti, Bordeaux or Burgundy is that so little of it is produced. The region has less than 5000 acres under vine. For reference, that’s roughly 2% of the acreage planted in Bordeaux. This scarcity drives up prices, creating a barrier for drinkers who might otherwise be willing to try something new. What’s more, Nebbiolo, the grape used to make Barolo, is particularly finicky. It can certainly be grown outside of Barolo and its sister region, Barbaresco, but the resulting wines fail to show the same finesse. Still, while Nebbiolo’s lack of adaptability may prevent it from becoming a worldwide superstar, the wines of Barolo offer something most of us wine dorks spend a lot of time searching for… a genuine sense of place.

The Barolo region is a stand of picturesque vineyards nestled near the center of Piedmont in Northwest Italy. The weather here is a touch cooler than it is in Tuscany, and the climate lends itself to elegant, medium-bodied wines. Nebbiolo grown here is noted for its savory qualities as much as (or perhaps more than) its fruit. To be called Barolo, the wine must be aged a minimum of 3 years prior to release. This further amplifies the wine’s non-fruit characteristics and softens its color.  That last bit is worth paying attention to as the color of wines from Nebbiolo tend toward a brick red as opposed to ruby or purple. It’s not uncommon to see shades of copper at the edge of a glass of even relatively young Barolo. It’s a signature of the wine, and a helpful tell if you’re ever asked to identify one in a blind tasting.

The palate of Barolo is singular as well. You can expect an interplay of fine tannin and racy acidity to persist all the way to the end of the wine’s exceptionally long and layered finish.  Drinkers who favor complexity over sheer weight will find Barolo very rewarding.  And while many claim that Barolo’s tannins demand a pairing with hearty meat dishes, I think this is overstated for most modern examples. That said, as is the case with many Italian reds, Barolo will most certainly stimulate your appetite; so having some sort of food on hand isn’t a bad idea.

I’m going to mangle a favorite quote and say that writing about wine is a lot like “dancing about architecture.” Even if I described the characteristics of Nebbiolo perfectly, and I’m sure I haven’t, it wouldn’t convey the experience you’re going to have tasting it. So if you love wine, and you haven’t yet tried a Barolo, I strongly encourage you to pick up one or both of these bottles. Both were imported directly by Randall’s, and the prices show it. The Gioso is a little more outgoing compared to the more conservative Franco Conterno, but either will provide an excellent introduction to this wine region. Also, they’re both really tasty. Cin cin!

Gioso Barolo - 2 for $40

Franco Conterno Barolo - 2 for $45